Signs and Symptoms of Goldfish Diseases
worm anchor A red, agitated spot on the fish’s body has a white worm sticking out of it.
Fish that are parasite-infected brush against whatever they can in an effort to remove the parasite.
Body slime fungus The fish seem to be shedding or molting as protective skin mucus becomes white and begins to peel off.
Fins ultimately become covered, too.
China illness Fins start to tear, starting at the base and spreading outward, especially the tail fin.
Infected regions start to become dark.
Blackening of the ventral area starts.
Constipation, Fish are highly sedentary and often rest on the aquarium bottom.
It’s conceivable that your abdomen may enlarge and bulge.
Dropsy Significant belly-bloating occurs.
(Blobular kidney) The scales protrude like pinecones.
finance sluggish At the tips of the tail fins, blood vessels swell up.
begins at the edge of the fins and progresses in the direction of the body.
Rotten fins or tails Fins ultimately become destroyed and have sections missing.
The whole fin may be eaten away when the rays get heated.
lice on fish Transparent crustaceans with a round, disk-like form cling to fish and won’t let go.
In an attempt to get rid of the parasites, infected fish may brush against items in the tank.
Fish pox Fish skin and fins acquire a waxy layer that is pinkish or white.
a wound (highly contagious)
Large red sores, boils, and heavy reddening at the bases of the fins are typical external symptoms of this illness, which often starts inside.
It cannot be confused with anchor worms since they tend to eat into the body rather than bloat up as anchor worm ulcers do. Because of this, the condition is sometimes referred to as a “hole-in-the-body illness.”
Although a salt bath could be too harsh, the sick fish should be separated right once and given medication-infused food. A veterinarian and antibiotics may be necessary on occasion. Before continuing, check with your neighborhood aquarium supply shop.
Infestations of parasites
Worm Anchor (highly contagious)
The fish’s skin is where these lengthy crustaceans of the genus Lernaea attach.
There are many species of this parasite that have been identified, but all of the females have a head that resembles an anchor and embeds in the host’s tissue.
The anchor worm really burrows into the scales, not on top of them. In an effort to remove the parasite, the fish will brush against everything.
These parasites, like fish lice, itch and cause localized bleeding where they adhere, and from there a white worm that may sometimes become fairly long protrudes. These areas are susceptible to secondary bacterial infections.
The first step in treating anchor worm is to remove the fish from the water and use forceps or tweezers to remove the worm. Put a moist cloth in your hand and use it to extract the worm.
Grab the fish from the hand that is carrying the cloth. Make sure the worm is facing you when you place the fish. Press as closely as you can to the ulcer with a pair of home tweezers, but just pull out the worm.
Be cautious not to break the parasite and avoid tearing any fish flesh. You must proceed with utmost caution since this is exceedingly risky for the fish. It would be advisable to hire a professional to handle it for you.
Remember to use an antiseptic on the diseased region after getting rid of the parasite, just like with fish lice. Antibiotic therapy may also hasten the healing of lesions. For a generic full-spectrum antibiotic, ask your aquarium dealer.
Salmon Lice (highly contagious)
This unsightly issue is undeniable. These tiny parasites, which resemble crabs, are roughly a sixth of an inch across. They are disk-shaped, spherical organisms that latch onto hosts and won’t let go.
Fins may sometimes harbor parasites, however, these regions are often not as rewarding as soft tissues like the body and gills.
In an attempt to remove these pests, afflicted fish may sometimes brush up against tank components. In an effort to rid themselves of these repulsive crustaceans, some fish have been known to leap out of the water. The area of the fish that was bitten may become infected once the parasite disengages.
Thankfully, the market is flooded with high-quality commercial parasite control products. Diptera, Masoten, Dylox, or Nequvon are usually suggested for the treatment of leeches, anchor worms, and fish lice. You may get assistance choosing one from your local aquarium supply shop.
The tank should be cleaned with the same parasite-control chemical once the fish has been quarantined
Experts have been known to drip hot paraffin wax from a candle over the parasite when treating bigger fish. This usually causes the parasite to loosen its hold.
Other specialists advise bathing the sick fish for fifteen minutes in a solution of potassium permanganate and water, diluted to a very pale pink color. First, speak with the proprietor of the nearby aquarium supply business.
It is necessary to treat any bite marks or wounds on the fish. Apply a little amount of methylene blue, malachite green, or mercurochrome to the area.
Ich (highly contagious)
The parasite Ichthyophthirius causes raised white patches on the body and fins that are roughly the size of salt grains. One of the most prevalent parasites among aquarium fish is this one. It should not be taken lightly since, if untreated, it will kill your fish.
There are several commercial ich (pronounced ick) therapies available since this condition is so widespread.
Fish with symptoms should be removed and treated in a hospital tank. However, it’s also necessary to treat the whole main tank. Carefully adhere to the treatment instructions.
If you don’t have access to a commercial ich treatment, heat the hospital tank to 85°F and add one teaspoon of salt per gallon of water.
Give the ten-day salt-water therapy to the fish in the hospital tank. Before it gets an opportunity to infest your whole population, it is crucial to eradicate this parasite.
(Highly contagious) Leeches
Another category of parasites that may be detected on your fish’s skin and scales are leeches. Although they are not very frequent in goldfish, once they are, they may be quite dangerous.
These are not the leeches that one often encounters in ponds and lakes. These parasitic, worm-like critters adhere to your fish and feed on the flesh and blood of the fish. They must be taken out as soon as possible, but not with tweezers or forceps.
Since these parasites are so powerful, attempting to remove them will probably do more harm to your fish than to the leeches.
For information on over-the-counter remedies, contact your local aquarium supply shop.
Another option is as follows: For every gallon of water, prepare a salt bath by adding eight-level tablespoons of table salt. Add the fish for no longer than 10 minutes once the salt has properly dissolved. With tweezers or forceps, the leeches that do not come off may now be readily removed.
Once again, commercial parasite-control drugs must be used right away to the tank. When a parasite is found, check all of your fish for it and always keep the diseased fish isolated.
Gill and Skin Flukes (highly contagious)
The gills get infected with these flukes, which are minute parasites. As with any infection, feeble fish are the first to perish. It is simple to identify the gill fluke (Dactylogyrus). The fish spends a lot of time on the surface in an effort to collect oxygen, causing the gills to swell up pink and red.
At this period, a pus-like fluid may sometimes be expelled from the gills. Severe color loss, itching, and hard breathing are among more symptoms. The skin seems enlarged due to the skin fluke (Gyrodactylus).
The host fish constantly rubs against things to get rid of the parasite, as is the case with all parasitic infections.
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