THE EVOLUTION OF TEQUILA.
It is believed that the origins of TEQUILA, its sister spirit mezcal, and other agave spirits date back at least 2,000 years to when one or more of the Indian tribes that inhabited what is now central Mexico discovered that the juice of the agave plant, if left exposed to air, fermented and turned into a milky, mildly alcoholic drink.
Throughout the agave-growing regions, word of this discovery traveled quickly. When the Aztecs drank this beverage, they named it octili poliqhui, which the Spaniards later twisted into the word pulque (POOL-kay)
Pulque drinking was associated with sacred ceremonies in Aztec civilization. Large tubs of pulque were placed up in public squares on various festivals to encourage consumption by the general population.
The governing elite, on the other hand, was not subject to the same constraints and was able to consume pulque throughout the year—a pleasure that imprisoned soldiers were also afforded right before they were sacrificed to the deities.
It was just a matter of time before Spanish explorers started making and consuming pulque when they arrived in Mexico during the early sixteenth century. However, because of its low alcohol level (about 3 percent ABV) and earthy, vegetal flavor, it was not as popular among the conquistadors as European-style beers and brandies were.
However, the first few efforts at distilling pulque failed, and the resultant spirit was harsh and sour.
The fact that heating the agave pulp resulted in a sweeter liquid that could be fermented led in the creation of mezcal wine, which became popular after that. Afterward, this “wine” was distilled into the spirit that we now know as mezcal.
In the Spanish colony of Mexico, early mezcal distilleries functioned similarly to modern-day brewpubs in terms of operations. In most cases, the distillation facility was modest in size, and most of its output was consumed in the distillery tavern (taberna).
Following in the footsteps of the colony’s expansion, the mezcal wine business flourished and quickly became a significant source of money for the government. In the same way as comparable attempts by English distillers to prevent rum production in the British colonies in North America were mostly unsuccessful, so were periodic attempts by Spanish brandy manufacturers to shut down the mezcal business.
During the Mexican Revolution of 1821, the country gained its freedom from Spanish rule. It was, nevertheless, a politically unstable nation until the 1870s, through several changes of administration, revolutions, and a devastating war with the United States.
The tabernas and distilleries were targeted by marauding gangs of troops and guerillas who collected “revolutionary taxes” and “voluntary” donations in kind. It was in 1876 that a general called Porfirio Daz, who was from the mezcal-producing state of Oaxaca (pronounced: oah-HAkuh), rose to power to usher in a period of relative peace and stability known as the Porfiriato, which lasted for thirty-five years.
In this era, the tequila industry was able to establish itself as a legitimate business.
Jose Cuervo sent the first three barrels of tequila to El Paso, Texas, in 1873, marking the beginning of modest tequila exports to both the United States and Europe. By 1910, the number of agave distilleries in the state of Jalisco had increased to about a hundred, according to official figures.
The fall of the Daz government in 1910 ushered in a decade-long era of turmoil that severely hampered the development of the tequila industry. The restoration of peace in Jalisco in the 1920s resulted in the spread of tequila production outside the immediate vicinity of the town of Tequila, with growth especially noticeable in the mountains around the community of Arandas.
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Modern winemaking methods, such as the use of cultured yeast and microbiological hygienic measures, were also adopted during this time period from the wine business as well.
The technique of adding non-agave sugars to the aguamiel, or “honey water,” was first introduced in the 1930s and soon copied by numerous tequila makers once it became popular.
When compared to 100 percent blue agave tequilas, these mixto (mixed) tequilas had a less strong flavor. They were, nevertheless, more attractive to non-native customers, notably those in the United States, as a result of their relative blandness.
TEQUILA AND MEZCAL ARE BASED ON THE SAME FOUNDATION
Mexican tequila and mezcal are manufactured by distilling the fermented juice of agave plants, which is harvested in the summer months. This plant is linked to the century plant, which also has spikey-leaved leaves and belongs to the lily family (although it is not a cactus).
To comply with Mexican law, the potent agave spirit known as tequila may only be manufactured from a single variety of agave, the blue agave (Agave tequilana Weber), and it can only be produced in restricted geographic regions, the majority of which are located in the western Mexican state of Jalisco.
In addition to agave, mezcal may be manufactured from a variety of different plant species. It is manufactured across the majority of Mexico’s territory.
Tequila and mezcal are both made in the same manner, with the exception of the method of preparation. According on the kind of agave being grown, the agave plant, also known as maguey (pronounced muh-GAY), is often grown on farms for eight to 10 years.
Upon reaching sexual maturity, the plant begins to develop a flower stem. Farmer or campesino, who harvests the agave plants, trims off the stalks as soon as they begin to develop. In this way, the plant’s development is redirected towards the center stalk, which grows in size until it is bulbous and filled with a sweet, juicily flavorful pulp.
In order to remove the long sword-shaped leaves, the campesino must cut the plant from its roots using a razor-sharp pike-like weapon called a coa, after which the plant is removed from its roots. From twenty-five to one hundred pounds, the remnant pia (also known as a “pineapple” because the cross-thatched denuded bulb resembles a huge green and white pineapple) may be seen in the wild.
The pias are quartered in the distillery before being used. After that, they are gently cooked in steam ovens or autoclaves until all of the starch has been turned to sugars, which is the process used in tequila production.
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They are cooked in subterranean ovens that are fired with wood charcoal to produce mezcal (mezcal) (which gives mezcal its distinctive smoky taste). They are then crushed (traditionally using a stone wheel dragged around a circular trough by a mule) and shredded in order to extract the sweet juice, known as aguamiel, from the fruit. (honey water).
WHAT JIMMY BUFFETT AND BING CROSBY HAVE IN COMMON
Since then, little volumes of tequila have been imported into border communities in the United States.
late in the nineteenth century The first significant increase in tequila sales in the United States
In the late 1940s, the margarita drink, a mix of tequila and lime juice, became popular in the United States.
It was developed using lime juice, orange liqueur, and ice. Its beginnings are unknown, but
Hollywood stars and cocktail parties in California and Mexican resorts seem to be a popular combination.
be a part of the majority of the origin tales Crooner and actor crooner and actor crooner and actor crooner and actor crooner
Bing Crosby was so enamored with one specific kind of tequila, Herradura, that he dedicated a song to it.
He partnered with fellow actor Phil Harris to bring the brand to the United States.
States. The margarita, as well as the tequila sunrise and tequila sour, have become popular.
It has grown quite popular in the United States, with many people claiming it as their own.
The margarita is the most popular drink in the liquor business.
nation. When Jimmy Buffett sung about “wasting away in paradise” in the 1970s,
The song’s popularity persuaded millions more Americans to enjoy margaritas.
from a margarita glass with a salt rim
AGAVE OR MIXTO FOR FERMENTATION
Whether the final product is 100 percent agave or blended (“mixto”) is determined by the fermenting stage. Tequila of the best grade is manufactured by fermenting and distilling agave juice with a little amount of water.
Mixto is prepared by fermenting and distilling agave juice with other sugars, mainly cane sugar, and water. Mexico’s mixtos may include up to 40% alcohol derived from other carbohydrates.
The agave content of mixtos delivered in bulk to other countries for bottling (most notably the United States) may be further decreased to 51 percent by the foreign bottler. All 100% agave and matured tequilas must be bottled in Mexico, according to Mexican law.
If a tequila is 100 percent agave, the label will always state such. It’s a mixto if it doesn’t specify 100% on the bottle label, however the phrase is seldom used.
TEQUILA AND MEZCAL AGEING AND DISTILLATION
Tequila and mezcal are traditionally distilled at 110 degrees in pot stills (55 percent ABV). The final spirit is clear, but it has a lot of congeners and other flavorings. Some light-colored tequilas are now rectified (redistilled) in column stills to create a cleaner, more bland spirit.
BLUE AGAVE RETURNS THE FIGHT
The blended mixto variant of tequila was the most popular from the 1930s to the 1980s. Tequilas made entirely of 100% agave were relegated to the status of a niche product. The worldwide popularity of single malt Scotch whiskies and costly cognacs in the late 1980s was noted by tequila makers. New 100% blue agave tequila brands were developed, and sales started a steady upward trend that continues to this day.
The addition of caramel to tequila and mezcal gives them their color, however barrel aging is a component in certain high-quality brands. To control the product’s taste profile, some distillers add tiny quantities of natural flavorings such sherry, prune concentrate, and coconut.
These additional tastes do not stand out on their own, but rather help to soften the agave spirit’s frequently harsh palate.
THE WORM AND MEZCAL
Agave spirits made outside of Mexico’s authorized territories are exempt from the norms and regulations that regulate the manufacturing and bottling of tequila.
Some mezcal distilleries are quite tiny and basic. The most well-known mezcals are made in the southern state of Oaxaca, however, they are also made in other states. There are eight types of agave that may be used to make mezcal, but the espadin agave (Agave angustifolia Haw) is the most common.
THE WORM IS TURNING
Tequila’s upgrading and upscaling has prompted mezcal manufacturers to follow suit. A growing variety of high-end mezcals, including several unique “single village” bottlings, have been brought to the market in recent years. Mezcal seems to be establishing itself as a separate and remarkable spirit.
The infamous “worm” seen in certain bottles of mezcal (“con gusano”) is really the larva of one of two agave moths. It’s unclear why the worm was added to the bottle of mezcal. The worm acts as evidence of high proof, according to one story:
the worm stays intact in the bottle if the amount of alcohol in the spirit is high enough to preserve the pickled worm. For centuries of fraternity guys, eating the worm, which is completely harmless, has been a rite of passage.
A worm in the bottle is not found in high-quality mezcals.
AGAVE SPIRITS FROM AROUND THE WORLD
Tequila-like agave spirits were made in the southwestern United States in the 1930s, according to federal excise tax data. JB Wagoner’s Ultra Premium 100% Blue Agave Spirits by Skyrocket Distillers in Temucula, California; Agua Azul by St.
George Spirits in Alameda, California; and Gold Agave by St. James Spirits in Irwindale, California are just a few examples of modern craft distillers experimenting with their own agave spirits.